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[Xtractor]

Hi Hey hello and greetings, quite new to the scene, need some pointers on the following.

I currently have the problem where the Nintendo DS Lite does not turn on (Charges fine, orange light comes on) but totally dead when attempting to switch on.

The switch was broken not long before that and was using a Paper clip to switch it on, I think the board might of short circuted or somehow broke due to it.  Ive checked Fuses F1 + F2 with a multimeter  as per instructions on this forum .. but they seem absolutely fine.

Im now thinking there might be a problem with the switch it self and want to know how I can make a temp switch to confirm that, So if anyone can confirm what solder points to do this.  From the picture below, ive already tried connecting pin 1 and 2 .. but nothing happens.

any tips appreciated!

[bitblt]

I don't have experience replacing that switch but I can tell you it's a "momentary switch". Have you tried using a small flat-head screwdriver or some tinfoil to short the pins together for just a moment? If that doesn't work then the switch might be SPDT (single pole double throw) meaning it's actually two momentary switches in one.

Also, are you sure you located and tested fuse F2 and not one of the SMD resistors in the same area?

[Xtractor]

I don't have experience replacing that switch but I can tell you it's a "momentary switch". Have you tried using a small flat-head screwdriver or some tinfoil to short the pins together for just a moment? If that doesn't work then the switch might be SPDT (single pole double throw) meaning it's actually two momentary switches in one.

Also, are you sure you located and tested fuse F2 and not one of the SMD resistors in the same area?

Im pretty sure I got the right fuses checked, the ones i checked are green in the middle with silver edges and F1 and F2 written close by.  As arrowed in the pictures you provided...





if its a SPDT switch, do you know how i might be able to temporarily short it to test it is a faulty switch?  I tried the paper clip over solder points 1 and 2, didnt like it..

Ta

[Xtractor]

After further testing, I put a multimeter on points 1 and 2 and pulled the switch to the on position with a paper clip it showed the connection was made.

So I have now ruled out the possibility of the switch being the issue.

1 ) Do you know of any other components that could be shorted on the board apart from F1 + F2? any particular thing i can check.. I have rechecked them again and they are fine, I  wish it was them though!!

2) Is there a good method of checking if the battery is the cause? Though unlikely...

Any thoughts welcome....

[Xtractor]

Okaaaay after Furtherrrrrr investigations, I think I have found the culprit!!! But need a how to fix ..

Theres a missing Transister / Resister / Diode.. not sure what it is, called "L2" next to the switch, which must of come off while my kid was using a pin to switch it on.

See picture below.  Can this thing be bought and replaced? Where can i get iit from exactly, help appreciated!! I think im almost there...

[Xtractor]

Ok further update, Ive read somewhere I can judge BRIDGE that gap and that thing reads 0hms with a meter.

I tried partially with a screw driver, green light came on but went off, but im guessing this is due to a bad connection.

I'll try a solder tomorrow and see if it helps!

[Xtractor]

Ok further update, Ive read somewhere I can judge BRIDGE that gap and that thing reads 0hms with a meter.

I tried partially with a screw driver, green light came on but went off, but im guessing this is due to a bad connection.

I'll try a solder tomorrow and see if it helps!

This done the trick!   

[Solarpolitiks]

Glad to hear you got it working. It woulda sucked had you not lol

[bitblt]

This done the trick!   

Great job!

[socket]

Nice!  I enjoyed reading this repair adventure! 

[fexo]

Might want to replace the on-off switch for $1.50

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15610