Free Superpass 1

DeVS · June 13, 2006, 12:07:31 PM

I got a Superpass 1 here. If anyone wants it they can have it for free. Really only useful for the old DS. You could reprogram it to be a Superpass 2 if you know how to. Let me know.

Devil_Spawn · June 13, 2006, 12:23:50 PM

im interested

DeVS · June 13, 2006, 12:31:38 PM

PM me your mailing addy and I will get it out to you this week.

rocky · June 13, 2006, 12:59:02 PM

Quote from: "DeVS"You could reprogram it to be a Superpass 2 if you know how to. Let me know.

How could you reprogram a superpass 1 to be a superpass 2? would I need that paralel port thing? because mine is broken

Elfish · June 13, 2006, 01:05:34 PM

awwwwwwwww :/ I'd rly love to get it!

bagster · June 13, 2006, 01:34:27 PM

http://natrium42.com/blog/

Didn't know that was possible. Will try it soon

DeVS · June 13, 2006, 02:10:08 PM

It's gone already guys sorry but Devil Spawn was first to reply.

markus · June 13, 2006, 02:23:15 PM

I've picked up all the parts for the jtag cable, but haven't had time to put it together and flash my superpass1.

One heads up on the software, it's really big, like 900megs.

rocky · June 13, 2006, 02:28:52 PM

I have a superpass2 but I broke the programer do you know if their is any way to program it without the programer or if their is a game that works without it having to be programed?

DSME · June 13, 2006, 04:53:05 PM

Quote from: "markus"I've picked up all the parts for the jtag cable, but haven't had time to put it together and flash my superpass1.

One heads up on the software, it's really big, like 900megs.

You don't actually need the xillinx webpack anymore. I was able to flash mine with the superpass2 software. http://www.supercard.cn/download/superpassV20.rar.
Natrium should update the tutorial, might save some ppl alot of time.

The JTAG cable was very easy to build. For the superpass, I used a razor blade to pry the box side open. Once you get it apart enough the circuitboard should slide out. Don't open it all the way, you want to keep the slot side sealed as much as possible.

If you build it a certian way, you don't even really need solder. For example, crimp the capacitor, battery+, and VCC into the same pin on the connector. It looks a lot cleaner, verses one pin per wire then splicing them together after. I soldered the crimps on mine for good measure; but it could have been done with out. An old 40 pin ata cable works good for wire. If you plan it right, it's cool to have wires line up in order with the supercard pinout.