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[darkuni]

The green recruit Supercard Guru here, looking to share some information.

After some time, I've managed to SOMEWHAT recreate this "power off" scenario on my own DS Lite.

I still believe that there are no DS Lites (contrary to opposing opinon) that magically shut off if you are ONLY shorting the SL1 jumper.

I've flashed and reflashed my DS Lite probably 20 times or more - shooting videos, testing firmware versions, blah blah blah.  Recently I revisted flashing it again.  Low and behold, I put my tool in, and BAM - powers off.  I try it again - BAM - powers off.

Now, I've flashed a LOT of Lites (besides my own) and the only difference THIS time was 1) I was using a VERY well used foil toothpick tool and 2) I was cocky about my experience with flashing the Lite.  Didn't use a mirror, didn't even turn the unit over - just popped the tool in from behind.

I solved #2 by being very very careful as I would if I were flashing a non-hacked DS Lite (or one that belonged to someone else).  When I was careful ... NO POWER OUTTAGES at all!  However, my toothpick tip was VERY worn down, and I wasn't getting the SL1 pads good enough.  So, I remade the toothpick with fresh foil (use the shiny side out) and BAM - no power outtage (being careful) and poof - it shorted very easily, right to 100% without failing.

I believe the problems people are having are four fold:

1) Lack of experience/nerves.  The first time I flashed a Lite (WITHOUT knowing ANYTHING about possibly bricking it) I was scared crapless.  After all, it was a $200 import from japan that I couldn't just "take back for a new one".  As such, that makes you jittery and unsure of yourself - making you far more prone to mistakes.  Solve this by PRACTICING without flashing.  if the power is going to dump on you, do it in a manner that doesn't brick your DS.  Fire up to the main menu, THEN try your tool.  If it powers out, try it again - slowy, methodically.  Once you are relatively sure you have bridged it (you can't tell, unfortunately - Loopy still hasn't written in a "simulated" flash yet - although I've been begging) and you don't drop power, you will have the confidence you need to move forward.

2) Improper tools.  The foil toothpick works GREAT if you make it the right size (just barely small enough to fit in the hole) as it will help you keep from moving around too much.  The flexible tip really works well, too - seems to be the best tool around for the bridging.  Make sure the tip isn't bigger than the body of the tool.  Don't make the tip too compressed, or it won't flex to help bridge the SL1.  You may have to use a little bit of PRESSURE down on the tool to get the flashing to begin - BE READY for that and hold it firm until you're done.  I'm REASONABLY sure at this point that MOST "oops I crapped my pants" situations occur from people LOSING contact because you're scared crapless (see #1) and then repositioning the tool too much, causing the power-off syndrome, and now you have a brick.

3) Inadequate education.  I don't think a lot of people with these problems are educating themselves enough or don't realize the DS Lite is a different ball game.  They find the SL1 contact and believe their knowledge of flashing the DS Classic is enough to sustain them through this event.  Unfortunately, it isn't true - EVERYONE I know personally that understood the dynamics of the procedure complete, used my document as a guide, all were successful in flashing;  so successful, in fact, they write in and say 'dude, your guide rocked - but it scared the crap out of me.  Once I was done, I couldn't figure out why everyone was freaking out about it and why your guide was laced with warnings.  it was easy'.

4) Overcompensation of the Evil Screw (tm).  I do believe (without any proof) that the LEFT side of the SL1 is as dangerous to flashing as the Evil Screw to the right.  I believe at least ONE of the power off events happens because subconsciously, as we flash, we're so damn scared of the Evil Screw, we OVERCOMPENSATE and end up shorting the left pad of the SL1 with something to the left of it.  It really makes perfect sense when you think about it.

I know several people here claim that they have found "unflashable" DS Lites that power off immediately when SL1 is jumpered.  I welcome their observations and conclusions in this thread as well (the more information you have, the better off you'll be).  But based on HOURS of doing this (sometimes over and over again - including with my OWN unit - as well as flashing a LOT of brand new units) I conclude that this is the best information I can pass on at this time.

Thanks folks.

[teknicz]

Good post, very informative. I flashed my own DS Lite with no problems, and only some brief research. I too came away with the feeling that it was an easy process. The next one I do I will definitely try out the foil toothpick.

I'm not accusing anyone of anything, but it seems the people that brick their DS do overcompensate or just plain freak out, as a result of unsteady nerves and incorrect or insufficient research/information.

[NT]

Good post.  I'll add my experience as well.  

I just got my Superkey yesterday, and naturally the first thing I wanted to do was flash my DS Lite.  I am a veteran of flashing the DS Phat, so I was unfazed at first.  I did heed the warnings and I understood the stuff about the Evil Screw®.  I watched darkuni's instructional video beforehand and fashioned a tinfoil toothpick device.  

I started the process while shorting SL1 and flashme started going quickly but then abruptly stopped at 32%.  This didn't concern me, as I ran into this with the DS Phat. So I carefully wiggled, applied pressure, re-adjusted the tinfoil, and there I am, still at 32% after at least 15-20 minutes.  I got frustrated and left the house for an hour or so.  I came back and started again.  Still nothing.  I then looked for some other tools.  I tried a precision philips-head screwdriver and a paperclip (side note about the paperclip:  DON'T EVER USE ONE ON A DS LITE! It's very easy to accidentally touch the Evil Screw® with a paperclip), but still nothing.  I finally had some luck with the head of a small nail, but I only managed to get to 86% before stopping.  I was wiggling and applying pressure, but it was stuck yet again.  I finally wiggled too much and managed to power off my DS by hitting the Evil Screw®.  

That's OK, because I used the proper button combination to do a flashme recovery, which worked great.  I started again and eventually got it to 100% after way too much adjusting.  I can only conclude from all of this that my particular DS has malformed SL1 contacts.  I think that they may not be completely soldered onto the DS mainboard.

[darkuni]

I think that is why the toothpick/foil is so handy - it molds and conforms to possible changes in height of the two pads, etc.

Thanks for sharing.

[Pulstar]

Every DS i've flashed, including some lites, I used a screw. I found a screw that just barely fits in the hole. The hole is kinda deep so it keeps the screw straight. This way there is NO possibility that you will contact anything but the SL1 pad. The screw should have a flat tip, not a pointy one like sheet metal screws. I use a screw from an old playstation 1 from when I used to install modchips. It is the perfect size. You just start flashme with the screw halfway screwed in, then turn it until you see the flashing start. In my opinion this method is flawless.

[Devil_Spawn]

we need some way of cancelling out the screw, i think we should call it: ScrewMe  :lol:

[soulie]

i got my Japanese nacy blue lite last week along with a superpass 2, mini sd etc.

did all the business, start the flash and the DSl powered down.
(power downs at 0%, 46% and 60something %

*all* i did was leave my supercard in, power back on holidng the buttons and retry the process till i got it all the way through.

[NT]

i got my Japanese nacy blue lite last week along with a superpass 2, mini sd etc.

did all the business, start the flash and the DSl powered down.
(power downs at 0%, 46% and 60something %

*all* i did was leave my supercard in, power back on holidng the buttons and retry the process till i got it all the way through.

Heh, you're lucky it powered down at 0% and not 1%.   :shock:

It really seems like the main problem is getting the proper tool for the job.  Anyone who has had good success should post some hi-res pics of their shorting tool so people can get an idea of what will work reliably.  I apparently didn't do a good job making my tinfoil toothpick.  

I like the idea of mass-marketing these tools as the ScrewMe.  You could also include some sort of non-conductive material to shove into the screw hole so that it can't get shorted.  Better yet, you could combine them into one U-shaped tool.  

[darkuni]

Try this.

[jbullfrog]

When I flashed my dsl, I cut a length of plastic straw and put it in the hole with the evil screw, and taped it down.  Then, I used a tinfoil tootpick, but it didn't work!  

I used a coat hanger cut to 4".  I ground down the edges a bit, and even though I was stuck at 15% for 2 minutes, I was able to flash successfully.

Coat hanger won't flake, and won't get overused like tin foil.  
You might want to cover the sides of the coat hanger with electrical tape.In fact, scotch tape works just as well.

[Pulstar]

we need some way of cancelling out the screw, i think we should call it: ScrewMe  :lol:

Hah! I like it! I think I'll patent it!
Seriously, I think the Screwme method is best, if you find the right size screw. If you have an old Playstation lying around, just take one of the screws out of it. It's just slightly larger than the hole so it works great. It works on DS phat or DS lite. I think the SL1 pads have a clear coating over them that makes it more difficult to make a connection. With the screw, it kinda scrapes off the coating. I think everyone's trying to find something really conductive like tin foil but that's not the problem. Matter of fact, the screw I use is black. Which proves that it doesn't take much to make the connection, the connection just needs to be firm. I have 100% success with this method, never any power offs at all.