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[Daveychan]

Greetz,

This is for those of you who have been worried about the latest rumors about the NDSL shutting itself down when you bridge the SL1 point on the latest wave of NDSLs....

Okay, first of all... it WILL power down, but there are reasons for this, and ways around it!  Keep reading!

I have personally flashed about 12 units, all from various release dates, some from day one wave here in Tokyo (mine! ), and three just yesterday from last week's wave release.  I experimented with several different units yesterday (flashed and un-flashed) in order to find out the "truth" about these rumors.  I think this is useful information (Pin?!?), and I'm passing it on so you don't make a terrible mistake, or feel the need to experiment around with your new $200 toy.

Okay, here is the list of conclusions I have made from yesterday's experimentation.  For each of these, I used the "scientific method" and repeated the situation numerous times on four different units of different release dates before deciding "this is the way it works."

Here goes:
1)  If you don't have the AC adapter plugged in, the unit will immediately power down when you bridge the SL1!  It doesn't seem to matter what charge percentage the battery is at, if you aren't plugged in, you are going to get black screens when you touch that SL1!  PLUG IN YOUR UNIT!  Simple, easy, and safe.

==The following are assuming you are now plugged in!==

2)  If you bridge the SL1 and then remove it, the next time you bridge, you will power off.  Basically, this means you've got one try to get this right!  (If you have begun a flash and didn't complete it, there are recovery methods, and results vary.  Check this forum for information about this before you cry.)  If you twist, fidget, sneeze, or had too many burritos and salsa for lunch... be warned!  When flashing, I recommend holding the NDSL vertically in one solid grip, and use your other steady hand to control your bridging tool.  Some like using a mirror to see the screen. Do whatever is most comfortable for you!  Next, put your bridging tool in the hole in one smooth motion and then FREEZE!, and hold it there.  If the percentage counter starts increasing, just keep waiting.  If it doesn't, I strongly recommend you remove your tool, power off, and START OVER.  The reason for this is that if you managed to bridge the gap, but didn't hold it long enough to kick start the flash, you'll lose power the second time you touch that SL1.

3)  If you touch anything other than the SL1, specifically the metal point immediately next to it, you will power off.  It's an ugly situation, and people have blown fuses and more often then not, made a lovely new paperweight.  Make damn sure you are using a tool that isn't going to flake or peel off metal bits (be sure those aluminum wrapped tools are tight!) and that you have complete control over whatever tool you are using.  If you are especially paranoid or just not that confident in your ability to keep your hands steady, I recommend you consider the advice of several people on this forum.  One of the more safe methods I've read about, is to use a plastic straw to create a shield around the SL1 so as not to risk any chance of touching something you shouldn't.  Personally, i don't want more things getting in my way while I flash.  Seems like just too much stuff with the mirrors, power cables, straws, pass cards, super cards, bridging tools (in my case a toothpick with foil), and not to mention the panting and salivating of the NDSL's owner, as he burns holes in your head with fear as you muck around with the their new toy!

Okay, that's about it.  I hope this information helps relieve some of the fear going on about the new waves of NDSL being altered to prevent flashing.  Best of luck!

[bitblt]

Wow, that explains most of the confusion. So Nintendo did take measures to discourage people from flashing DSlite.  Is this true for just the latest wave? Thanks for that information.

[socket]

Wow, so if you lose contact once, you're done... Good to know.  The first time I flashed my original DS I lost contact 5 or 6 times... better find a better tool.......

[jamtaru]

i'm not doubting what happened in your flashing experience, but when i flashed mine about a week ago, i did not have the ac adapter plugged in and i had to reapply the connection to the the sl1 countless times, it took me about 15 minutes to finally get it to 100%, at 47% because it was taking so long and i knew my firmware could be recovered at that point, i shoved a hunk of tinfoil in to see if i could speed up the process and moved it around a bunch, system turned off, i was able to get back to the flashing process just fine and continue the slow process with my eyeglasses screwdriver

[754boy]

The first time I flashed my original DS I lost contact 5 or 6 times... better find a better tool.......

Hell yeah lol, I did too......this is making me afraid to flash my Lite. Gonna try it when I work up enough nerve  

[Daveychan]

Yup.. i understand what you are saying... but the latest waves of NDSLs seem to be a tad bit different than the original NDS and wave one NDSL for the SL1 controls.... perhaps you've got a different wave version than the one's I tested, but in any case, I think what I've written here will apply to almost all of the newer versions, and perhaps ALL of the version releases in the States?

If you aren't sure about whether your NDSL will do as I described, simply turn on your NDSL, don't worry about the superpass or supercard stuff, open up the battery cover, and put your tool in.  

...............BLACK!  
Not to worry, you can just simply power back on your NDSL and go on with life as normal.

Now you know!      

Hope this helps people!

[bitblt]

Make this thread sticky please.

EDIT:
(or something more visible)

[darkuni]

I have a USA released DS Lite white.  This didn't apply to my DS Lite.

1) Shorted SL1 without the adapter plugged in ... Stayed powered on.
2) I just reflashed it WITHOUT the adapter plugged in - no problems.
3) I purposefully broke the connection several times during the flash - no problem.

I'm not sure what this means - but the data doesn't appear to apply to this DS Lite.

[ratx]

I can also confirm flashing US lites and losing contact during without any problems... not tried any without AC though. I've not had a single lite power off during flashing yet ( 20 + )

[Daveychan]

Excellent!  I'm glad to hear not everyone is having these power-off problems!

So, i guess we can assume that if the unit powers off when you bridge the SL1 (just testing the connection, not actually flashing), you will need to follow my instructions.

If not... flash away and if your hands aren't so steady.. you'll be just fine!

Thanks for the updates everyone!  The more information we share, the better for everyone!

mahalo

[darkuni]

I think the ONE thing you CAN count on is - touching that screw WILL power off the Lite.  Take your time - deep breath - follow the recommendations of others.  You'll be fine

[bitblt]

I have a USA released DS Lite white.  This didn't apply to my DS Lite.

Are you testing with a non-modified US DS lite?  This shut-off feature would probably be part of the original firmware.

I've not had a single lite power off during flashing yet ( 20 + )

(Wow, 20+ DS lites)

Who knows what Nintendo shipped throughout the US, and worldwide?  Daveychan has definitely discovered something.

[darkuni]

The tests above I just did with my previously flashed DS Lite that was flashed with the BETA Lite firmware originally.  I flashed it with the test above using the FINAL V7 firmware.  There was no flashing progress (i.e. it started and stayed at 0%) until I shorted the jumper.  I stopped a couple of times around 30%.

[bitblt]

If you aren't sure about whether your NDSL will do as I described, simply turn on your NDSL, don't worry about the superpass or supercard stuff, open up the battery cover, and put your tool in.

After a DS lite (shut-off version) is flashed does it still exhibit the same behavior?

[Daveychan]

After a DS lite (shut-off version) is flashed does it still exhibit the same behavior?

NO.  After it has been successfully flashed, the NDSL will not power off when you bridge the SL1.  I have confirmed this on two NDSLs and one NDS1, and have even repeatedly tried to bridge with no repercussions.

EDIT:  Maybe I should have added that this topic is intended for people who have NEVER flashed their NDS1 and NDSL and are using the original Nintendo firmware, whichever version/release wave that may happen to be.