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[Jinnai]

Oh I ain't callin' him a liar!

I just want to lay my hands on one to see for myself.  I just find it crazy that there would be any differences between one batch(?) of USA lites and others.

I'm wondering if the ones he's run across are actually DEFECTIVE, and perhaps their fuses are weaker and ANY poking around blasts them ... something ... I just can't come up with a scenario that explains it off.

They could have changed ther production midway through and shpped mixed versions around the country since essentially if they work the same unflashed, then for nintendo it wouldn't matter who gets what.

[moviecouple]

Very well could be defective units. Seems to be more confirmed flashme units that were fine than ones that went bad.

[Daveychan]

LOL... well i just gotta jump in here!

Keep in mind that ALL of the units I did my testing on are here from Tokyo.
I, too, find it extremely unlikely that there is any difference in hardware between those shipped to the States and those here.

It is odd however that nobody there (the States) has been able to confirm a power shutdown when bridging their SL1.  Which leads me to believe that perhaps the shutdown problem only applies to a few of the latest waves here, and those shipped to the States are actual the same as a previous wave release in Japan.  (Read that again if it sounds confusing, it does make sense.)

In this case, those of you who bought the "first wave" in the States, are actually getting the equivalent of "wave two" or "wave three" from Japan, which did not have the power off problem.  In this case, I would say that the next one or two waves you receive in the States are likely to be the same as the current wave here, and in that case....  watch out for the power off!    (That being said, it also seems possible that since there have been so many sold-out waves, the wave releases there and here will eventually be the same?!?)

Hope this seems like reasonable logic for everyone!  Everything I have just said is pure guesswork, and isn't based on any kind of factual information i have read.  I have no special information about how Nintendo builds its hardware and what versions of the waves go to which countries.  It does sound to me that those of you who bought the "first wave" in the States aren't going to have to worry about this problem so much. However, if it were me, i certainly wouldn't take the risk, especially since the test is easy and has no negative side effects.

Best of luck to everyone, and happy flashing!   [/i]

[bitblt]

It does sound to me that those of you who bought the "first wave" in the States aren't going to have to worry about this problem so much. However, if it were me, i certainly wouldn't take the risk, especially since the test is easy and has no negative side effects.

My sentiments exactly.

[onneeye]

I flashed my usa dslite and it never shut off. It stay at 1% for a while. I used drill bit no luck, tooth pick foil no luck and I ened up using a allen key and it dit the trick. took me ten minutes getting it to work. I flash with the stealth version. Have 2 year warranty with best buy. Happy camper now.

What I notice is the the sl1 slot had some type of coating on it. So who have to scratch it off to short it.

[Traspler]

Are all these Problems US lite only or is it the same with the Japanese one and maybe the european one?
Because I'll an european one but I'm veeery worried about my lite...

[socket]

I bricked a Lite last night...  I never saw the progress move and I was VERY careful... sucks... I'll just use a SuperKey for now.   :?

[The_Legend]

I have a question: will an unflashed bios chip work in a bricked DS? I'll be getting 2 DSes Lite soon, and I'm planning to flash both of them (if I can get around this problem), but I'm kind of worried about flashing. I'm gonna test shorting the SL1 with the unit running an original game, but I'm kind of worried if the system doesn't go off with that, but do when I'm in the flashing process. So, what I want to know is, will I be able to do the recovery process that romman told us how to do with a non-flashed bios? I don't see why I can't, I'll just need to run supercard using the superpass2, right?

[bitblt]

Yes, any working NDSL bios will do.  If you have two NDSLs, and you understand the swap procedure, then it's impossible to go wrong.  If you brick one of your NDSLs you can always use your other BIOS to boot and try again.  Brick and flash your NDSL as many times as it takes.  You are brick proof.

[Traspler]

haha great ^^

Do you need a special screwdriver to open the DSlite?
Is it hard to put it back together?

When are the fuses damaged... ? Could it happen in all the cases?

[bitblt]

haha great ^^

Do you need a special screwdriver to open the DSlite?
Is it hard to put it back together?

When are the fuses damaged... ? Could it happen in all the cases?

Yes, you need a tri-wing screwdriver.  Look on eBay.  I think a blown fuse is going to be rare, but it's an easy thing to fix.

[Kudaku]

i have a couple things to say
(note that im Canadian)

first of all thanks for all the info

i flashed my DSL perfectly, i had my power connected, however lost the connections many many times and i tested touching the evil screw no power off

my serial number is "UG******** (2)

when i flashed my friend's DSL, the second time i tried to touch the SL1 the DSL it powered off (this happened before i read the thread)
anyway i just want to note that his serial number is
"UG******** (8*)"
so it happened to me please keep that in mind if there are any canadians here

in conclusion i think that if the last number is close to two or is two the "no second connection thing" doesn't apply

if the serial number ends in (8*) then it applies

(this might have been said already)

[Rob_Threat]

if the serial number ends in (8*) then it applies

Nope. Mine ends in 8 and I lost connection several times... zero power issues.

The problem isn't the "evil screw" or different builds, it's the shielding plate just to the left of SL1. This is a slightly hard to see, but very easy area to touch accidently. If you use an insulated flashing tool or cut a piece of plastic drinking straw, you will not power off. Unless you have a very steady hand & know exactly what you're doing... don't use an uninsulated probing tool. A short piece of coat hanger wrapped with tape is a free, reliable, and short-safe tool. A toothpick wrapped with alum foil is a tool for those with experience... or an old DS.

Good luck to all, and remember to save your sales slip. If you don't have the means to return your DSL (import, gift, etc) a nice new SuperKey is pretty cheap way to save heartache.  

[robo]

I will later on be testing this with a Black European DS Lite.

[jconds]

the ONLY solution is using an insulated flashing tool, for example a tin foil spike wrapped with scotch tape *around* the tip...leaving only a small flat surface at the front..  this caused absolutely NO problems for me!