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[mavis]

So the lite does not shut down if SL1 contact is lost...

Maybe if SL1 contact is lost for a period of time, say more than 10 seconds?  I don't know. I'm just trying to understand why people report their DSlite shutting off during flashing.  Are they just making contact with some other part of the circuit board?

No, it took me a good FIVE MINUTES to get my Lite flashed, I had a hell of a time getting SL1 bridged - I just set it down, had a smoke, and then went back to it a couple minutes later - no worries.

[capsule]

I didn't have any trouble bridging mine. I used a 3mm jewler's flathead driver. Once I got it bridged it never lost contact. Then it hit 1% and shut down.

I recall on my old DS'es I tried removing it on the 2nd one I tried and it just paused the process until I bridged it again. It never shut off.

Would be interested to hear from other DS Lite owners and their success/failures with flashing up. Particularly anyone who bought from this 3rd release wave of DS Lites (03/31 release in Japan).

[EBCubs03]

Flashed it no problem with tin foil.

[Bluecat]

I used a 3mm jewler's flathead driver.

Me too - having tried a couple of 'flat' metallic objects like the wrong end of a drill bit and the top of an allen key - nothing shifted it past 0%. I did read somewhere that Nintendo used some kind of glue/residue over the SL1, maybe the relatively sharp flathead screwdriver was enough to scratch through it and perform the short? Dunno.

I was also wondering what percentage you needed to hit to be able to carry on where you left on - mine first bombed at 6%, but tyke reports being unable to continue after reaching just 1% = I thought 10% was the magic figure (hence why clenched fists after the 6%).

[totaltoanage]

use aluminum foil. i havent tried it on my lite but thats what i used on regular DS.

[darkuni]

I might need a picture of the tinfoil.... Are you talking about taking a strip and rolling it into a little joint looking thing and stuffing it in there?  Is it rigid enough as is or do you have to reenforce it?

Is the DS Lite hole the same size as the original DS?  I can start practicing.

[mavis]

I posted this in another thread, but yeah - I lost contact with SL1 several times during the flashing process, at one point I just set it down (propped open like a teepee) and had a smoke to calm myself down before going at it again (it was at 10% or so and wouldn't budge from there, so I was freaked out) ... Losing contact with SL1 wasn't a problem at all, in my case.

I'm wondering if people are somehow making contact with another part of the board, specifically one of the three points directly adjacent to SL1 - you can see them clearly in this photo: http://pc.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/2006/0216/ds45.jpg ... I wonder if that is what's causing these power-offs? I noticed that "capsule" mentioned using a 3mm jeweller's screwdriver to short SL1, which is what I used too - except mine was quite a bit smaller, only 1mm - I wonder if that's what the problem was for him (and everyone else) ... ?

[Daveychan]

Greetz All,

darkuni, for the tinfoil Q, I took a small piece of foil, a little bit bigger than a quarter, and wrapped it around the end of the non-sharp end of a toothpick.  Then i lowered it into the hole, did a little twisty twisty, and started flashing.  I did, however, get spooked during my flash when a friend called out to me, and I lost the flash at 96% and had to reboot while holding Start-Select-A-B, but much to my relief was able to resume and get to 100%.  (This whole story was posted here by the way: http://scdev.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3080)

Bluecat, interesting theory, as I too tried to use one of those tiny flathead screwdrivers (like the kind for working on watch screws), and could not get it to start flashing either.  I think those drivers are made of different kind of metallic alloys and some work and some don't.  Sounds like a couple of peeps here have some "real" metal drivers and are having luck. I know it means very little now, but I'm very sorry to hear about your flashing problems, and I sincerely hope a fix is found for ya.  I do recommend trying the foil on a toothpick.. you've got nothing to lose neh?

capsule, sorry mate, but i'm a first wave (er, first hour that is   ) NDSL owner, and i'm not sure about any changes for the later releases.  It would seem a bit odd to me that they would do anything different in the production line for the SL1 holes like glue or something, especially since they didn't even bother covering them up with that easy-to-destroy special red tape this time.  Ditto to you too on the condolences and advice for the foil on a toothpick flashing tool.

Mavis, tasukette kurette arigato gozaimasu!  Genki? Hisashiburi neh?  :razz:

[scootdog]

Rollin foil joints, flashin, and smokin.  Sounds like some crazy chit to me.

[totaltoanage]

davey is right, everyone has the same ndsl at launch. does anyone know the status of the new flashmeLite coming out anytime soon??

[J-Dub]

I got my DS Lite today and I'm looking for the best course to take.  I've read the posts here and it seems like a nasty risk...

This is the hardware I have:


As I'm sure everyone knows.. the DS part of the Supercard does not work, using the 'IQSRAM.gba' method.

Any advice would be appreciated.

J

[sneef]

is that a passkey 1, or passkey 2... If it's a passkey2, then unless the passkey2 is extremely different than other passme2's (as far as i know, it's not) your equipment should work.  I'm using the same navy DS Lite, with a passme 2-z, and supercard SD.  

if it's a passkey1 then you'll need to get a passme2 clone.  I have a brand new in box (never used, not even to flash) g6/m3 passkey2 for sale if you want.  I ordered it and then right after that saw the passme2-z and bought that.  then my passkey2 came in the mail today, but i don't need it.

[J-Dub]

is that a passkey 1, or passkey 2... If it's a passkey2, then unless the passkey2 is extremely different than other passme2's (as far as i know, it's not) your equipment should work.  I'm using the same navy DS Lite, with a passme 2-z, and supercard SD.

I ordered that PassMe2 and it showed up with no box or manual.  I assume it's a PassMe2 because that's what I ordered - but how can I be sure?  Also, it works on my girlfriends pink ds, which will only use PassMe2's, right?  

If it is supposed to work with this hardware.. is there some newer 'IQSRAM.gba' file that I should get?

I apologize if I'm rocking full noob mode right now.

[bitblt]

I was also wondering what percentage you needed to hit to be able to carry on where you left on - mine first bombed at 6%, but tyke reports being unable to continue after reaching just 1% = I thought 10% was the magic figure (hence why clenched fists after the 6%).

Well 10% is a known safe zone. You may have broken a record with 6%.  Anyone dare to try 5%.  Double dare you.  Just kidding, don't try it. :shock:

[sneef]

J-Dub:  ok.  well, i took a look at the m3/g6 passkey2 that I got, and it has a very clear label "passkey 2".  I think yours is the older one.  now, an older passme can be programmed to work on a new firmware DS, using a jtag (or "cheaptag").  maybe your passkey is has had it's CPLD programmed to work with whatever boot cart you are using?

does your passkey have a little switch on it? if not, then it's not the passkey2.

IN any case, No there is not a 'new' iqsram.gba .  

as long as your .gba and .sav file match the original DS cart you use to boot, then it should work on any 'new firmware' DS.  (assuming the CPLD on the passme is already programmed to the correct game, which I'm assuming it is, since it works in your girlfriend's pink DS)

So i'm not sure why you can't get into DS mode with your setup...